Theobroma Cocoa, The Food of the Gods

Cocoa has been cultivated for well over 3,000 years and remains one of the greatest discoveries of all time. The Aztecs valued chocolate so much they used the beans as a means of currency and also made xocolatl, a cocoa beverage which was drunk in court and during religious ceremonies. The process for cultivating, harvesting and processing cocoa beans has changed very little over the years:

“The beans would have first been collected, left to ferment naturally, sun dried, roasted in earthen pots, and de-shelled by hand. The kernels were then ground on a slightly concave stone called a metate using a cylindrical grinder. At this point, spices and herbs of various kinds, including vanilla, might have been added to improve the taste. The resulting paste was then formed into cakes to cool and harden. For consumption, the cakes would be broken up, dissolved in water, and beaten to a foamy consistency.” – Cocoa and Chocolate Manual, deZaan

The Spanish were the first to discover the possibilities of chocolate. They kept it a secret and conducted chocolate experiments for well over 140 years before the secrets of the cocoa bean leaked out to other European countries. Drinking chocolate became popular in Western Europe during the 17^th Century and was serving as a source of tax revenue for governments. As the value of cocoa began to rise, attempts to cultivate varieties of Theobroma Cacoa followed. However, because of it’s specific cultivation requirements, initial efforts were met with disease and pests. Successful attempts were close to the tree’s origin of Mexico, places such as Brazil and the Caribbean Islands. By the late 17^th century the Spanish had introduced cocoa to Asia, setting up the first cocoa plantation in Indonesia. Soon after, the seeds were taken over to West Africa where the Theobroma Cacoa has thrived ever since.

Ghana is the second biggest exporter of cocoa, and produces the highest quality cocoa in the world. Unlike it’s neighbour Ivory Coast who is the biggest exporter of cocoa, Ghana maintains high standards due to the country’s cocoa standards agency, COCOBOD. For Ghana, cocoa is a major export, and a vast amount of money goes into maintaining and regulating this. Cocoa is a cash crop, and for that reason most farmers will grow vegetables and fruit alongside the trees. This encourages bio-diversity that enhances environmental factors. This is only possible because the Ghanaian government does not allow the ownership of cocoa plantations by foreigners. Ghana was also the first cocoa producing country to start a farmer’s co-op, Kuapa Kokoo, who set an example as Fair Trade cocoa producers for the rest of the world. This small scale, regulated system of cocoa farming is unique and is why Ghana continues to export premium cocoa beans. 

Canopy created by Cocoa trees 

Most modern cocoa trees in Ghana are hybrids as they require specific environmental conditions and year round tending to maximise yields. These hybrids are much shorter (3 meters) then the original breed and can be grown in closer proximity (3 meters apart). A mature cocoa plantation creates a low canopy effect, blocking out 70% of sunlight and creating dense mulching on the ground. This makes for ideal-growing conditions: it allows for less light competition; allow for good airflow; and the soil retains sufficient moisture.

Cocoa pods grow directly of the trunk

Most cocoa trees reach their bearing age after 4 years, and will produce cocoa pods year round. The pods grow directly from the trunk of the tree, developing to be 15-25cm long. The average cocoa tree can produce up to 80 pods a year. Each pod contains approximately 30 beans. Once the cocoa stops producing its maximum yield the tree is cut down and replaced. Time is given for the ground to recover, by planting nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous rich plants. These nutrient rich plants are edible, which serves as an extra bonus for the farmer. Examples include plantain, banana, chillies, and cassava. It is also advised that cocoa trees are grown in and amongst other varieties of tall trees to protect them from extreme sunlight and to encourage bio-diversity. In Ghana especially, projects to help promote cocoa farming alongside agro-forestry have been extremely successful, producing high yields, extending the life of the trees and preventing the spread of diseases.

Even through the pods are cultivated year round, there is one main heavy harvest season, which extends from September through to December. I followed a group of Ghanaian cocoa farmers in Akimoda during this harvest period and I documented the process:

1.     The cocoa pods are collected. A machete is used to cut the pod away from the trunk cleanly and carefully, making sure the pod and the tree are not damaged in the process

2.     The pods are split, again using a sharp machete, being carful not to damage any of the beans inside the pod. 

3.     The beans are covered in a sweet sticky white pulp. This is scooped out into a basket. The husks are kept and ground-up to be used as organic fertiliser.

4.     The pulp is collected and loosely covered with banana leaves as not to allow any pests in, but still allowing sufficient airflow. The pulp is left to ferment for seven days, being mixed every couple of days. This process develops the chocolate flavour and colour.

5.     The fermented cocoa bean is then spread out on to large drying racks where they are left for a couple of weeks, being mixed every few days. The slow drying process intensifies the chocolate flavour and draws out the moisture content.

Left top: poorly fermented bean
left bottom: poorly dried bean
Right: well fermented and dried beans

The beans need to be fermented properly and dried thoroughly before they can be sold. Failure to do so could result in a contaminated/acrid tasting batch that will not be bought by cocoa buying companies. New geo-tracking systems allows for the COCOBOD to pick out areas where the process may not be followed properly. In this case, extra training and support is given to the farmers.

The farmer then takes his dried cocoa beans to the purchasing clerk who weights the beans and pays the farmer accordingly. When taken to the depot, the beans are dried for the second time to ensure consistency. The beans are put into hessian sacks, labelled and stored in the depot till there are enough sacks to make a journey down to the port.  

At the port, the beans are sold to the government, and then sold back to the buying company before being loaded onto cargo ships. This is a necessary formality as legally all the cocoa in Ghana is owned by the Ghanaian government.

The cocoa is either taken to Asia or Europe to be processed into chocolate. The cocoa beans are taken to a chocolate press where the cocoa beans are first cleaned, de-shelled, roasted, blended (to neutralise the flavour) and ground. They then go through a press that turns the ground up cocoa nibs into three different products: cocoa liquor, cocoa butter and cocoa powder. To make chocolate, cocoa liquor and cocoa butter is combined with sugar and milk powder.

Cocoa pressing

As cocoa powder is the by product, when the demand for chocolate goes up, there tends to be a great deal of cocoa powder that will also become available on the market, and this may not coincide with the demand of chocolate. Because of this the chocolate industry has had to find ways of balancing the markets. Cocoa powder tends to be used in cheaper quality processed foods and is even used in products to give an aroma of chocolate, rather then the flavour of chocolate. Cheaper quality chocolates will also use vegetable fats to substitute for cocoa butter during the manufacturing of chocolate, which is inexpensive and also easier to obtain. 

So the story of chocolate is rather fascinating. My simple overview of the process is a glimpse into how chocolate comes from land to plate, but the story is a great deal more complex then what I have portrayed. Corruption, child labour, inequality, unfair prices, lack of farming inputs, access to resources, climate change, pest and diseases, are all issues effecting cocoa farmers in Ghana and around the world. Due to signing a letter of confidentiality I am not allowed to discuss this information on my blog. But I will simply say that as consumers we can make a choice, and an educated one at that. Don't be sucked in by false pretences and promises that large manufacturing companies are making. As these companies try to go ethical, we must question their objectives and fully look into their motivations. Only first hand observations can tell you the truth. What once used to be the food of the gods, has now turned into a commodity that is trying to be capitalised on by wannabe gods. I’m sure you know what companies I’m talking about…      

Milton Keynes, Eat Independent

It’s a shame Milton Keynes has a bad reputation amongst it’s non-inhabitants. Most only come to Milton Keynes for retail therapy, which generally means indoor shopping and pit stopping in places not unique to the city. The majority of visitors dare not explore further out of their comfort zones, as god forbid… they could end up lost on our confusing grid system. Going loopy round our many roundabouts. A general assumption is that Milton Keynes is a modern town/city with seemingly no culture or character cursed/blessed with a high concentration of high street chains and restaurants.

If one does dare to venture past this superficial façade, one may notice Milton Keynes is changing. Since its creation 35 years ago, Milton Keynes has matured and is developing it’s own identity. It is an homage to post-modern Britain. The town is inspiring a new generation, and unlike other towns in the country, our inspiration is rather unique. With the majority of the city’s residents having roots outside the county and even the country, the diversity and multiculturalism of Milton Keynes is rather unique.

So how does this relate to food? Well, as I’ve been living in Milton Keynes on/off for most of my life, I have made observations the best way I make them… by eating.

Filter pass the Wetherspoons and Nandos and you will see a town that reflects the stories of the people who live in this unique city.  My story of Milton Keyes will be told through the eye’s of the eateries that have withstood the competition from the big chains that dominate Milton Keynes. Concepts that have been chosen by the people over the big names. The survival of these establishments over the years speaks volumes for what this city is about. Owning a food business anywhere in the world is difficult, but I think this is especially hard in a city where capitalism and corporations have had a huge part to play in the development of the city.

The following places deserve great recognition, and play a vital role in making Milton Keynes a unique Foodie’s town.   

All eating establishments are within a 5mile radius of the city and they are all INDEPENDENT. Please send forward any other suggestions you may have. My chosen eating establishments goes as follows:

Percy's

Concept: Mouth watering American BBQ food delivered to your door

Must Try: Pork-Which, Pulled pork in flat bread

Average price: £10 per person

Chipotle bean burger, hand pulled pork in a flat bread, home fries, Percy's slaw

Percy’s is a small company established only a year and a half ago. It is doing extremely very well given the economical circumstances, however this is not at all surprising. The concept is a winning idea and has been designed cleverly to appeal to the Milton Keynes market. This has deservedly been recognised by the Natwest Smarta Awards; which named Percy’s one of the top 100 small business in the UK for 2011. For such a young business to be so successful in it’s early stages is rare. So what are they doing right? Well, firstly, Percy’s isn’t your usual takeaway. The American BBQ themed company deliver great quality food to your door. Their menu has a great range without being annoyingly extensive, and even better, there are things on the menu you would be hard push to find anywhere else in Milton Keynes without paying a price. Generous fillings, innovative food, and great quality makes Percy’s a brain child built out of love for good food. Percy’s cleverly fills the missing gap in the Milton Keynes food market and it’s defiantly catching on fast! 

Tai Pan

Concept: Authentic Chinese food, Dim Sum Lunch

Must Try: Crispy cheng fung, Black been and chilli spare ribs, Crispy prawn dumplings 

Average price: £7 per person

Dim Sum at Tai Pan

Not many people know Tai Pan do Dim Sum lunch seven days a week. The people who do know are regulars, and regulars at Tai Pan tend to be Chinese. This can only be a good sign as Milton Keynes has had its fair share of boom and bust Chinese restaurants. Tai Pan has stuck around for a while, and has witnessed great change around it. Situated in the Theatre District, it has a prime location, especially for an independent restaurant.

As lovers of Dim Sum know, it’s a light affair, mainly consisting of a few dishes and essentially accompanied with tea. It’s delicate, flavourful and doesn't leave you feeling sluggish. These attributes make it a perfect lunchtime treat. The waiters are friendly and helpful, and do their best to explain what some of the stranger items on the menu are. If, like me, you enjoy taking risks with your food, there is plenty to experiment with. One of the more surprisingly nice risks I have taken in the past is Crispy Cheng Fung, which can only be described as an inverted spring roll: soft on the outside and crispy on the inside. If the next time you’re in town and you fancy Wagamamas… please re-think. Walk a little bit further and get the real deal. You wont have to wait in a horribly long que, you’ll more then likely have some extra change left over and you will be pleasantly surprised.

The Swan Inn

Concept: Fine country pub and dinning

Must Try: Sunday Roast

Average price: £20 per person

The new interior of The Swan Inn

Although The Swan Inn is known by most Milton Keynians, it is not know by all. Since it’s re-opening in November this year The Swan Inn has a growing fan base.  This could have something to do with the revival of good British food. But I also think it’s because The Swan Inn is the only independent pub in Milton Keynes that serves locally sourced, great quality grub in a family friendly environment. I believe that a good pub is a pub that's been around for a while; a place that is welcoming; a place that has history; and a place that is run by the locals for the locals. With the exception of The Swan, this criteria is not met in Milton Keynes, this maybe due to the fact it is a relatively new city and that most of the pubs are chains.

The Swan Inn is the oldest pub in Milton Keynes, and I think this has a great deal to do with it’s success. It is a proper pub… yes it may be bordering on to gastro pub, but that's the only way it’ll every get people in from further a field. The food is great, portions are generous, there’s a great selection of beers and wine, and the service is always friendly. If you’re tired of sitting in faux Tudor interiors (when really nothing can hide the fact that your in an angular 60’s cube) and you want to escape from the horribly dubious fact that your Sunday roast has been cooked by a microwave technician; get yourself over to the Swan Inn and get your smackers around some proper substance.

Veggie World

Concept: Pure-Vegetarian oriental cuisine

Must Try: Veggie crispy duck, Rendang curry, Crispy shredded beef

Average price: £10 per person

 

Veggie crispy duck

Salt and pepper tofu, crispy shredded beef, Rendang curry,  fired rice

This is my risk taker. I now most non-vegetarians reading this will be like “Errr, no thanks. Why have veggie Chinese when I can have a meaty Chinese?” Well, my argument is: why have cheap second quality meat from a takeaway and play twice as much when you can get something ten times taster? And yes… I did say taster. The meat substitutes here are cunningly designed soya or gluten products, which most people see as tasteless, but in truth absorb flavours well and particularly versatile in texture. Nothing like Quorn nor Linda McCartney’s questionable sausages. I can confidently say, some of the meat substitutes are actually better then the real thing. For example, the crispy shredded beef at Veggie World is actually crispy and comes in the most amazing ziny sauce. I know from many disappointing Chinese takeaways that shredded beef can more often then not be tough and chewy, which isn’t very nice at all.

I’ve been going to Veggie World for nearly four years now and have seen it grow in popularity. I know for a fact that a great deal many of their customers are not vegetarian. I also know that people do travel to come to Veggie World. It’s just one of those places: a unique concept in a bizarre location – Bletchley! Alcohol is not served, but you are allowed to bring your own bottle.  

Milton Keynes Market

Concept: Odd bits, new bits and some very tasty bits

Must Try: Jacket Potato Man, Middle Eastern Stall, Dosa Van

Average price: £5

Jacket Potato Man

Sweet stall

Karachi Grill

Dosa Stall

Milton Keynes Market is older then me! And that's old for Milton Keynes. Under the bridges and amongst the pillars is the Milton Keynes market. A compact cluster of vans, stalls, and temporary shops. It’s nothing fancy and it’s defiantly not pretty. But that doesn't matter, cause Milton Keynes market is an electric hub of activity. It reflects the local community and Milton Keynes’s cultural diversity, as markets should. You could easily travel the world with your taste buds at Milton Keynes market: from South Indian dosa; to Middle Eastern wraps; big jacket potatoes cooked in a proper jacket potato oven; quick Chinese take-away; old school sweets and treats; to even a full English fry up. You can get it all at Milton Keynes market. As nice and as fashionable farmer markets are at the moment, I honestly believe home is where the market is, and MK market without it frills is my kind of market. The market is run by locals and it shows the diversity and uniqueness that Milton Keynes has to offer. I highly recommend having a little wonder around, because there are defiantly a few hidden gems and some proper characters lurking amongst the stripy tarpaulin. 

Mercy’s Jallof Rice

Typical Ghanian Food stall selling Jallof

It’s always the simple things in life that make life worth living. In the case of most Ghanaians, one of these simple things comes in the form of Jallof rice, a classic accompliment to most meats and vegetables. Sold pretty much everywhere it’s a workingman’s food, using simple cheap ingredients to make the country’s staple, rice, more exciting. The red rice, which is sometimes specked with Green peppers and yellow maze, mirrors the colours of the Ghanain flag and patriotically stands as the National dish.  

My first taste of Jallof was a few years back at a Nigerian take away in Hackney. I liked it, but didn’t really make all too much of a fuss about it. The second time was at a Nigerian wedding, and in my ravenous state I chomped down two portions worth. When first coming to Ghana I was happily surprised to find Jallof on most menus… this is when my true love affair with Jallof started. I sampled jallof from different establishments, from stalls to fine restaurants, jallof with shrimp, with vegetables, with chilli peppers… I tried them all. When my farther’s housekeeper, Mercy, heard about my new obsession, she said to me, “Eh! Dipa, you eat too much jallof rice, you’re tummy will burst. If you are going to eat Jallof rice, you should do it properly, eat mine, and you will not eat another Jallof again.” Big statement, but I wasn't going stop her.

Mercy

She set about cooking, but was adamant I didn't watch her cook. I sat impatiently in the dinning room. First the smell of onions and garlic came wafting through the house, then the sound of sizzling fresh tomatoes. Soon after a distinct aroma of Rosemary then the sharp pungency of Shitto (a shrimp, soy, chilli and palm oil sauce used by Ghanains in cooking and for dipping). Then everything went quite for a bit. The smell became more complex as time went by. I knew I was in for a treat. As I drifted away with the aromas and thoughts of what was too come, I was suddenly snapped back into reality by a sharp burnt smell. I ran to the kitchen and Mercy turned around to me with a huge pot of red rice: “Here, my Jallof is ready.”

The tangy, shrimpy, tomato rice was delicious. The sides were a little burnt, but this brought out a really nice combined charred taste of the tomatoes, onions and startch. The jallof was dotted with peas and diced green peppers that gave the rice another sensory dimension. Most of the Jallofs I had had before were stodgy and slightly over cooked, but Mercy’s rice was light and fluffy. It was delicious, and distinctly different from my previous Jallof experiences.

Mercy's Jallof and Chicken

So now every time I go back to Accra, I ask for Mercy’s Jallof. She’s more then happy to make it and thankfully doesn't mess around with the recipe too much. Although, the underlying taste of the rice differs depending on the meat it is served with. In the case of the above picture, Jallof rice and Chicken, Mercy steams the chicken first before frying it, then in the same pan uses the juices and fat to cook the rice in. These flavours pass through the rice, which is almost like cooking the rice in stock. When cooking vegetarian Jallof, Mercy adds a branded flavour sachet when cooking of the tomatoes. Although I’m not allowed to look, I have been told the tomato “gravy” in which the rice is cooked is essential to giving the right Jallof flavour. This flavour can only be described as tangy, salty and a little bit charred.

I have tried to make Jallof back home, but there is something about African tomatoes. You just don't get toms like them back home. They have an intense earthy, truly tomato flavour unique to Africa. I think this is exactly the reason why when I first tried Jallof in the UK it didn't really sing to me the way Ghanaian Jallof sings to me of the flavours of the country. I must add though, Mercy’s warning about my tummy bursting is very much so true. Eating Jallof is bad for the waistline, not only is it made with copious amounts of palm oil, but it also tends to be laced with Ajinamoto. For that reason, I truly advise trying home made jallof, there is no better jallof then that made by the hands of a true Ghanaian Mammy.  

Hooked in Takoradi

 Captain Hook's Legendary Fish Platter

Long journeys suck. Long journeys in the heat suck even more. Long journeys in the heat on endlessly bumpy roads suck the most. But when a long journey in the heat on endlessly bumpy roads have a pit stop at Captain Hooks… well, that's a journey worth making.

Since I started coming to Ghana a couple of years ago, I have grown to love the local fare, and have found the best food to be outside the capital, especially along the coast. The one thing I really look forward to is our visit to Captain Hook. This normally happens on the way to Axim or Cape Cost (West coast of Ghana). The journey can take anywhere from six to nine hours, and because of this we tend to start our trip early in the morning. By lunchtime we’re lagging, cranky and bored of hearing the loop on the World Service. The only thing saving our sanity is to know we have a Captain Hook fish platter to look forward to. A Burger King at a service station on the M1 in no match for what is probably the best pit stop lunch there is. A no frills indoor/outdoor establishment, the restaurant is popular with South African expats working in the mining and oil industry that dominates the port city of Takoradi. For that reason the menu is very South African friendly, with such brands such as Red, Savana Dry, Castle and Amstel dominating the drinks menu.

South African Friendly Menu

The fish platter is ordered and the wait begins. This is not for the impatient. We have waited up to an hour before. Beer after beer after cider after beer, the wait is agonising. It’s almost temping to order a few things to nibble on, but one has to remember the immensity of what is about to bestow the table. Before the platter emerges from the kitchen, selections of condiments are placed before us, almost as a test of willpower. Trust me when I say, it is futile, and a great waste of suspicious pink liquid. The only condiment worth really paying any attention to is probably the chilli salsa, but then again that's a given for a chilli lover.

Condiments for the Platter

The platter is a thing of beauty. It is hard to describe the feeling you get when seeing all the fish cooked in a variety of ways and served in such a generous manor. I suppose a rough sense of emotions can be described as: overwhelmed, hungry and a little bit delirious! I’m a great fan of seafood platters, and have had ordered many over the years, but I have never had a platter that I’ve been in awe of. The variety on the platter gets me excited and a little confused, because I just don't know where to start! The rice and potatoes are a nice little addition, but honestly, I feel are as pointless and as much of a waste of space as the condiments. So this is what goes on a Captain Hook Fish Platter:

1.     Grilled rock lobster with garlic and parsley butter

2.     Grilled Chab Mackerel

3.     Grilled Tilapia with Tomato

4.     Red Snapper in a spiced batter

5.     Potatoes & Rice

6.     Curried Grouper and peppers

7.     Steamed Fish in butter, garlic and ginger

8.     Steamed Snapper in a garlic butter sauce

9.     Tempura Prawns

I thought it'd be interesting to show the before and after of a Captain Hook Platter. It gives an idea of what is most enjoyed… but also shows how gluttonous two people can be over a four person platter:

Before

After

A Captain Hook Fish Platter leaves one feeling stuffed, happy, and well…. still delirious. Finishing the last leg of the journey is easier, mainly because we’ve fallen asleep, and know that when we wake up it will be to a beautiful golden coast beach like this one.

Cape Coast