“Killing me softly chicken” and Dog for dinner

(Warning: this may not be everyone’s taste) 

When in a place that is proud of their tradition, a few oddities are bound to be found. This is the best way I can put it. Sagada along with its Animist ways has a few culinary ceremonies that they hold on to, which would throw WWF and Greenpeace up in arms. It has to be remembered that this is tradition, which dates back for centauries, and something that the Sagadan people are proud of. Gohan and his sister invited us for dinner at Bana’s Café and cooked us some local delicacies, including….

Gohan and Rob in Bana's Cafe

Dog meat (asocena) is commonly available on menus in the Mountain province and it gets even more bizarre then this the more rural you go. Bats and ants are not uncommon foods for local tribes. It’s understandable, as larger protein sources tend to become scarce when in dense rainforests. Chickens and pigs are saved only for special occasions.

So how did eating dog come about? Well, my source of information has come directly from Sagadans who eat dog on a regular bases. They informed me that dogs were originally kept for hunting and protection. Before war or during a time of crisis a dog would be sacrificed as it was and is still believed, the spirit of the dog will offer protection. According to research, the number of tribal wars and internal conflict in the Mountain Province is directly proportional to the number of slaughtered family dogs.

Times of unsettlement between tribes still continues to this day. The last feud was between Sagada and Bontoc ten years ago and resulted in the loss of three lives. Dogs were sacrificed thousands of years ago, continue to be sacrificed, and will continue to be sacrificed for the right reasons. The dilemma that is being faced by the people of the mountain province is the growing demand to see dog meat on the menus of local restaurants. The dogs are not sacrificed for any other reason then the consumption of their meat. A law was passed in 1998 as part of the Philippines Animal Welfare Act, stating that dogs should not be killed unless it is part of a religious ceremony (and a few other reasons which are not relevant in this topic more info: http://askville.amazon.com/countries-people-eat-dogs/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=415239). This resulted in a large number of restaurants being shut down in Baguio, Bontoc, and surrounding towns of the Cordilleras. You are now less likely to see Asocena on the menu in Baguio then in a smaller more rural town, as it is harder for these restaurants to be regulated by the law. In most cases, the police of these smaller towns see it as tradition, and do nothing to report it. The locals deem the clamp down on asocena a threat to traditional ways.

…So asocena meat was for dinner. It was actually meat from a dog, which had been sacrificed the day before for the annual Meeting of Local Guides. I was told by Gohan black dingoes are preferred as they are considered to be the tastiest. The hair of the dog is burnt of and the skin is kept on the meat.

Asoceno

Well…. I tried it. I truly expected it to taste like “dog”… but it didn't. It was gamey, beefy, and almost goaty. The meat was defiantly tough, but I don't know if that’s how dog meat is supposed to be. The cuts were unfamiliar to me, so I wasn't sure which bits I was eating, nor which bits were supposed to be tastier.  I avoided the skin, and truth be told, I also avoided taking second helpings. Like balut, it was a mind over mater thing. If I was served asocena without being told what it was and it was slow cooked in a tasty gravy, I think I’d chomp it down happily. But as it was served, skin on and very visibly “dog”, I found it hard to digest. I tried to copy Gohan in how he was eating his piece, but he obviously had years of experience ahead of him compared to me. I doubt I’ll try it again knowingly. Maybe next time I won’t know and I’ll actually truly enjoy it!

Pinikpikan was next on the menu, or as locals call it: “killing me softly chicken.” I couldn't believe my ears when I was told about this local delicacy. Again, it is something reserved for special occasions only, and we were honored, but also slightly scared to be the special occasion… this is why: Pinikpikan is a chicken which has been beaten with a stick whilst still alive, it is then killed butchered and cooked. It is claimed that beating the chicken whilst alive bruises the skin therefore bringing blood to the surface and thus improving the taste of the chicken. The occasion follows with the chicken being shared out amongst the guests. The youngest girl gets the wing, the youngest boy gets the leg, the oldest man receives the head, and the eldest women… the chicken bum (an actually priced part of the chicken in the Philippines, as the chicken only has one!) We weren’t around when the “killing me softly” part was happening, but I did see the plucked chicken in a thin blue plastic bag, and it was a sight to behold. I felt horrible for having been the reason that an animal had to go through any kind of pain. The killing had been done, and the only thing I could do was eat the poor bugger. I kept telling myself it’s tradition, it’s tradition, it’s tradition and that the foie gras I’ve had in the past is no different. 

Pinikpiken

As you can see from the image above, the chicken’s skin is quite dark. This darkening isn’t from soya sauce, but from the bruising. I got the wing, as tradition states. I found the meat to be rather tough and chewy, but then again, that’s the preferred texture for most Philippinos. The taste was meatier then regular chicken. It was cooked in a really interesting way: with smoked venison at the bottom of a tall pot; followed by smoked pork belly; then the chicken; a few crushed, but still whole stems of ginger; finally all covered with water and left to simmer on the hob whilst the flavours mixed for a couple of hours. Lastly some Pac Choy, or Chinese cabbage as they call it here, was added on top in the final few minuets of cooking. The broth was served in a bowl, and it had the most fragrant and smoky aroma. It tasted really good. The smoked venison fell apart in my mouth and the pork belly was so soft and salty, I savored every mouthful.

Smoked pork belly, smoked venison, pac choy and ginger flavoured the tasty broth

I can’t say I really enjoyed the asocena nor the pinikpiken. I was however, extremely grateful that Gohan went out of his way to give us the true taste of the Mountain Province. Around the world there are some very different, sometimes bizarre, culinary traditions in practice. For some people it may seem backwards and un-civilised, and for other’s it’s an insight into a culture trying to hold on to tradition. Gohan had taught us so much about the culture of the Mountain Province. It’s a place we found very difficult to leave. The people, the culture, and defiantly the food all took us by supprise. I know I will return as I believe there is still so much to learn from the area. But for now I know two things for sure: I will never look at a dog the same way and that the spirit of bruised chicken will always hunt me….

Sagada, Fresh and Tasty

It’s hard to be disappointed with food in Sagada. You can be sure that the food being served in the local restaurants has been grown/reared locally. This is evident by the sculpted mountains that flow through the Mountain Province, terraces that have been systematically carved from the sides of the mountains. The organic farms ensure the sustainable use of water, and make crop rotation easier for the year.

Our days started with a killer breakfast at Bana’s Café. The full works, as the likelihood of having a proper lunch was slim, especially when caving and hiking. So we splurged a little, and after all, Bana's was the best place in town to get some proper coffee:

Bananas with fresh, homemade thick and deliciously creamy yogurt. It’s hard to find decent yogurt in the Philippines as cows are rarely milked, and the “fresh milk” that is available tends to be imported from New Zealand. The milk used to make Bana’s yogurt comes from the Carabu – the waterbuffalo. In the Philippines, the buffalo is considered the farmer’s best friend, as it ploughs the land, produces vitamin rich dairy produce and is a symbol of strength and agriculture. The meat is leaner then, and contains as much iron, as beef. I was recently told, that Buffalo dairy products are now being seen as a lucrative business. The milk of the buffalo has more nutrients then that of the cow, and buying milk from the buffalo which has been reared domestically, is cheaper then importing long life cow’s milk from Australasia.

Next on the morning menu was either:

Bana’s Longsilog, which was delectable. The sausage had been partly opened so the fatty porky bits on the inside crisped up. They had, possibly the best fried egg I had had since leaving Manila. The yolk was runny and the whites slightly crispy…

…Or it would be one of Bana’s selection of omelettes served with whole grain toast and local marmalade. Lighter then the Longsilog and a little healthy if vegetables were chosen for the filling. The egg was nice an fluffy and the vegetables still retained some integrity, and weren’t soggy. It was a perfect breakfast before a hike, as it wasn't too greasy and filling to impair mobility… unlike the next break fast….

…So the Bana’s Favourite, was probably our favourite breakfast opotion. It consists of whole grain toast, local bacon, two eggs, marmalade and fresh fruit. This was saved for the day of departure, before we hade to make a six hour journey to Baguio. The intension was to eat enough that we would want to fall back asleep on the bus, but this was impossible with the winding roads, and the rickety seats.

After a day's trip, and depending on what time you get back into Sagada Town, a drink or a snack is surely in order to gain back all the lost energy. This can either be in the form of a super strong Red Horse, or equally pleasant: A lemon meringue pie from the Lemon Pie Inn. We stumbled here after a long hike. The Inn was bright yellow, and I remember reading about it in one of my favourite Philippino food/travel blogs (http://lakad-pilipinas.blogspot.com) as a place that was recommended.

We sat ordered their famous Lemon Pie, and whilst we waited we took in the interior. A mix of traditional Sagadan design with an arty twist. Colourful art broke up the traditional wooden interior, with no eclectic ornament seeming out of place. The seating was low, with cushions and low tables, which I can imagine can get a little uncomfortable after a while. I was disappointed not to see any alcohol on the menu, as we were hoping to come back for evening drinks, but we figure, with the early closing time of 8.30pm, the establishment was more of a café then a bar.

We got speaking to the writer of another travel blog Biyaheng Pinoy (http://www.biyahengpinoy.blogspot.com) whilst at the Lemon Pie Inn. He told us he decided to stay on in Sagada and help promote the Lemon Pie as he loved the idea so much. He has been really very successful in all efforts of making the Lemon Pie Inn customer friendly, from decorating the interior, to promoting the Inn on social networking sites, and generally creating a buzz for the tangtastic homemade pies. They are now so famous, one of the main culinary attractions of Sagada.

The story of the Lemon pie goes back a few generations. A recipe was passed down the family and 12 years improvements were made to create what is now the most famous Lemon Pie in the Philippines. The pies were originally take up town to the market where they were sold, but now, as the town develops further downtown, the owner decided to stay put and let people come to him for his delicious treat. The pie has now been enjoyed by many locals and travellers alike, and continues to be bogged about by avid foodie (like myself).    

Bana’s Café, Sagada, In search of some fine poop!

The town of Sagada nestled in the Mountains of Cordillera

A six-hour drive up one of the world’s most dangerous motorways, and five thousand feet above sea level, lays the stunning town of Sagada, high up in the Mountain Province of Cordillera. Lime stone cliffs, lush thick pine forests, along with what seems like endless rice terraces, surround the town of Sagada. The culture in the area is vastly different from the rest of the Philippines, as majority practice Animism. The belief that everything has a spirit and nature is to be respected is very evident in the organic development of the town. The houses are made of natural material, garbage is disposed of properly, and the youth have picnics in caves. There is very little Spanish or American influence, which means the town still retains a lot of tradition.

Sagada’s lush terrain along with it cool temperature is ideal for growing coffee. This was the reason for our visit: to see how the world’s most expensive coffee, civet or alamid coffee, is produced. Our search led us to Melay and Gohan Sibayen, a couple who have dedicated their lives to sourcing and roasting the best coffee available in the Cordilleras.

Bana's Cafe 

With the support of Bote Central (a member of The World Fair Trade Organisation), the couple were given an 18-day roasting machine so that the sourced coffee can be freshly roasted at the back of their cafe, saving on costs and giving the smaller farmers an even better price. Some of the coffee gets sent to Bote Central and some is kept in their café in Sagada, and sold to passing travellers.

The café opened five years ago, the same time as the birth of their daughter Bana. Since then they have sourced and continue to source organically grown coffee, and Civet coffee from around the Mountain Province. They have encouraged the DTI, the local Department of Trade and Industry to recognise coffee as a lucrative crop, which should be encouraged amongst farmers. Now, Cordillera is recognised world-wide for it’s good quality and wonderfully aromatic Arabica coffee. This is still something that is reasonably new to a lot of Philippinos who are used to instant 3-in-1 pouches, but things are gradually changing, as more coffee shops are popping up. 

The hanging coffins of Sagada

So we wanted in on the buzz. Gohan took us for a scenic stroll through Echo Vally, where, as the name suggest, you can get a good echo reverberating through the Vally. We had some fun here, then headed down to see the hanging coffins, a tradition which is unique to Animist cultures, as it is believed the spirits can be free instead of buried in the ground. What I found so fascinating was how anybody got both the coffin and the body up such steep cliffs, and then even managed to nail it to the rock.

We walked further down the vally. The soil became slimier and the vegetation denser. My grip-less, white canvas trainers were not prepared for the hike, and I could feel every rock and twig underneath my feet. I wondered how Gohan was doing this in flip flops! As we approached an opening of a cave, Gohan pointed in the distance “look, that’s a coffee tree!” I honestly had no clue what I was looking at. Then as we moved further on, I realised a cluster of small trees with bright red berries hanging off them. 

A coffee tree

We were specifically looking for civet poop, and in a dense muddy forest, it’s not easy to find. We were told Civets live around limestone, and after eating the coffee berries, they find a high spot on which to sit and digest their dinner. This is were we would be likely to find their pricey droppings. We searched around for a good while but found only one bean!

Pooped civet coffee bean

We continued up to another farm, where some new Arabica plants were being grown. We stopped to have a rest and chomp on some oranges. 

Gohan 

As we munched away, Gohan explained how the farmer had designed the plotting of the plants to create a bio-diverse farming area. He explained the trees grown around the coffee plants were there to act as green manures, weed control and also as a shade for the little Arabica plants.

Young Arabica coffee plants

So off we set again on the search. We didn’t find any more droppings, but we did find some civet “spit outs” which apparently can be classed as second class to the poop beans.

Spat out civet coffee beans

Happy with our findings, we heading back to the café. Along the way we passed a running stream that led to another cave opening. Gohan told us there are 118 cave opening in the Sagada area, all connected. Some of these caves are accessible, but only with a guide. Others are only for experienced cavers. The intricate network is familiar with the locals as ceremonies are still held deep down in the caves, even to this day.

A cave with a running stream below a Sagadan house

Once back at the café we studied the difference between the civet poop bean, and the spit out bean. The difference was obvious even to the untrained eye. The reason why civet coffee is so revered in taste, is the process of bean selection and digestion done by the civet. Firstly it picks the most ripe bean, then if the whole bean is digested, only the soft flesh of the fruit is broken down, whilst the bean stays intact. The emzynes in the civet are said to enter the bean creating shorter peptides thus creating more amino acids. The taste of the coffee is smoother and chocolatier then regular coffee. As you can see from the picture below, the digested coffee bean has a rougher surface then the spat out coffee bean. As the spat out coffee bean has also been exposed to the enzymes, but for a shorter period of time, it is second class to the digested bean and still reaches a high price.

Left: Pooped bean (rougher exterior)  Right: Spat out bean

So now it was time to try some civet coffee. As expected, it was lovely. It was the first properly brewed coffee I had since leaving Vigan. The taste was not exactly as I expected though. There was a hint of nuttiness, almost hazelnutty. It was defiantly smoother then regular black coffee, but also had a drier after taste. Anyways… I’m no coffee expert, but I did defiantly enjoy it, especially after the long hike and whilst enjoying the beautiful views over Sagada.

A cup of civet coffee and a beautiful view