Street Market, Yangon, Myanmar

Myanmar, described as the final frontier of Asia. Still in the early stages of development, the country is vulnerable to external exploitations and this is being seen in the heavy influx of foreign investers who all want a cut of the virgin pie.

I am visiting my parents who have moved to Yangon last September (for some of this humble pie) and can not help feeling like I am part of the problem. Listening to expats whine and moan about the poor water quality, the lack of sanitation and the communication issues they have with their drivers is a little tiresome and frustrating. Worse still is the insistent trips to the only three air-conditioned malls/super-markets with "proper coffee", "sugar-free bread" and "cheese". I needed to escape and see what lay beyond Western Superficiality. So I took a trip down-town with chef Tuk Tuk from Horizon Golf Club, and ventured beyond the pagodas and river boats into the busy narrow streets of old Yangon. What I found was the most diverse variety of food, colour, and smells I had experienced since my arrival.

With 80% of the population still relying on agriculture as their main source of income, I truly hope this variety continues as Yangon develops, especially as padi-fields and farms around the city are being gobbled up by factories and high rise buildings. Like similar Asian cities, as competition increases with economic growth, there could be a reduction in variety of produce and an increase in more intensive agricultural practices. I wonder how this would effect the livelihoods of low-input agricultural farmers that supply majority of the city's fresh produce.

The polite patient nature of the Burmese people is something we could all learn from, but I feel it could also be detrimental when it comes to resisting the exploitation of human and environmental rights that are not being stripped by the government, but by foreign hands.

I dont want this post to be overly political. I would just like to show people what is worth preserving...

One of the many market streets in Down Town Yangon

Vegetables

Garnishes

Roots...  

...More Roots... 

...And Pickled Roots

Dried Mushrooms

Achari (Pickles)

Dried Chilli 

Fish Products

Chicken with all the bits and bobs

Live Eels

Fish, prawns, squid, clams and cray fish

Lobster and Langoustine 

Ice!!!

Pig and all the bits and bobs

Flowers

Indoor fish and meat market

Fruit 

Rambutan

Typical street in Old Yangon

Two Take a Trip to Taal & Tagatay

In my last week in the Philippines, I decided to make most of my little time left in the country and visit Tagatay, a popular country retreat for Manilites, and only a couple of hours away from the capital.  I’d been told of the town’s beauty, nestled along a ridge, overlooking the active Taal Volcano in the centre of lake Taal. The climate's cooler, the air is significantly fresher, the agriculture of the area is almost entirely organic and fancy holiday houses dot the lush landscape. With some of the country’s best hotels, resort and restaurants , Tagatay is a rather exclusive destination. I’m not an exclusive kinda gal, but as it was coming to the end of my stay in the Philippines, I decided to treat myself.

Unfortunately, we decided to go on a rather dismally wet evening. The “cool” climate was bitterly cold, and we were extremely under prepared. Clothes, bags and shoes soaked, we sipped our expensive beer and contemplated how we were to pass the next couple of days. We were told a trip to the Taal Volcano would be P2500 each, way more then we budgeted for. We were also unconfidently told that the Banka (traditional Philippino boat) ride to the volcano during the rough weather would be safe, as it’d be unlikely to sink with only two passengers - not really very re-assuring. Dismayed and cold, we planned on heading back to the city the next day.

On awakening the next day, the weather was much better although the beautiful view was still fogged over by thick clouds. We decided to make the trip to the volcano any way, turning down expensive guides, and making the journey by ourselves. We found a decent fisherman who took us over to the island in his tiny motor powered boat. On arriving to the Taal Volcano we raced up to the top, and watched (and giggled) as lazy overweight tourists with facemasks passed us on tiny horses led by “tour guides”.  As shameful as that was, even more shameful was a man at the top who offered us a 9iron club and 50 golf balls with the aim of swinging the balls straight into the mouth of the volcano!  When I asked him what happens with the balls, he told me he goes and fetches them out of the sulphuric lake with a friend every weekend... not very likely... Anyways, we stopped at the top, munched on a banana and took in the stunning view (which is way better on a clear day). 

View at the top of Taal

The banka journey back to main land was a race to beat the approaching storm… as the storm clouds approached, the water was wild and rough, the wind blew against our direction an it seemed like we were getting further away from our destination. This was probably the scariest, and wettest, boat journey I have ever made… and I’ve made a few. The boat bounced and rocked and groaned with every wave, the water slashed and slapped my body and face. The journey that took us initially 20mins to get to the volcano, took us an hour and 15mins to get back! We were extremely glad to get back on dry land. We tipped well and made tracks to the nearest drinking establishment to get over the traumatic journey.

Entrance to Sonya's Garden

The next day, we took things easy, our sore legs and cold bones deserved some TLC. We decided to treat ourselves to lunch at Sonya’s Garden, a well known B&B and Restaurant. Probably the only truly successful establishment in Tagatay that doesn't have a view of Taal Lake and Volcano. The attraction though, is their extensive garden and organic farm. I had been recommended to go here by many Manilites who all claim Sonya’s Garden to be the hidden gem of Tagatay. And that it was; a 20min jeepney drive out of town, then a 10min tricycle drive away from the ridge and down towards Bantangas, Sonya’s Garden is in a very unassuming location. 

Colours at Sonya's Garden

We had booked for lunch, but decided to explore the gardens before sitting down to our feast. The gardens seemed to roll on and on, with hidden green houses, relaxing water features, and a huge variety of exotic flowers and colourful birds.

Beautiful blue hanging flowers

We stumbled into some gardens that were strictly of limits to guests, and came across some dinning tables, which, I can only assume was for bookings for more intimate special occasions...

Private dinning in one of their many conservatories

Sony’s Garden has accommodation, starting from P3000 (£44) per person to P5000 (£73). The houses/rooms are dotted around the gardens and are traditional Philippino designs with caprice windows and wooden interiors.

Accommodation: traditional design

They also have a lovely spa, a bakery and a shop selling lovely organic beauty products and some local crafts.

We must have been walking around the gardens for nearly an hour when the hunger kicked in…

Sonya’s Garden is known for their set lunch. A three-course meal that uses and shows off their ingredients straight from their farm and garden for only P600 (around £9). The dinning area is in a large, light conservatory with exotic birds flying free and chirping overhead… this nerved me a little, I’ve had bad experiences of seagulls when by the seaside in the UK, and pigeons in London, and was expecting a similar experience… but for some reason, the birds seemed docile and uninterested in all the food spreads below them.

The service was brilliant, and so very swift: Calamansi (small Philippino lime) juice was immediately brought out to our table, and this was quickly followed by our first course of flower salad, an array of toppings, and a basket of freshly baked bread.

Large salad spread

The choice was huge… fruit, nuts, cheese, pesto and even sundried tomatoes. It was all so very delicious, that we forgot to keep space for our second course…

…Our salad was promptly replaced with pasta: tagliatelle and a selection of sauces and toppings: including salmon, olives, roasted vegetables, rich tomato sauce, mushrooms, Parmesan cheese and chilli flakes, all topped up without even asking. 

We literally had no more space, and both agreed a coffee would be a more then sufficient end to the meal. But when deep-fried banana rolls, chocolate cake and sweet potato cakes were placed in front of us, we just could not resist a try. Sweetly delicious, but a little too heavy especially after our indulgent meal, it’s a Philippino’s delight, but my idea of too-much-of –a-good-thing = a case of servere indigestion. Instead of coffee, we were given Taragon tea. I had never had this before, and was pleasantly surprised at the pleasing taste and digestive quality. This is something I have taken away with me and now make after near death, decadent meals.

Stuffed!

Happily stuffed, we headed back to Manila on the bus. A trip that started of rather bleak ended unexpectedly chirpy. It’s funny how the most unassuming place can have the most memorable lasting effects… especially when food’s concerned. 

Five ways to Jazzing Instant Noodles:

Manila is a city of convenience. McDonald, Burger King, KFC, Jolibee etc. all deliver 24hrs a day. This seems slightly wrong to me. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy eating out in Manila due to great value for money you get for the wide variety of cuisines, but I also actually enjoy cooking instead of taking out every night, it can be hard when you fancy something substantial but don't fancy making anything too fancy and costly. This is when my economically practical, but still creative cooking hat has to be put on.

I live right next to what I personally consider the best Korean supermarket in Manila: the staff are friendly, and give me free treats after every purchase; their homemade kim chi is THE best I’ve ever had; their selection of instant noodles has happily sustained me after long days when I don't feel like standing over a stove for the whole night; and best of all, they’re open till 2 in the morning. So hurray! for great food on tap….  I have fallen back on a few simple recipes, which I have developed during my stay here in Manila. Recipes that can vary depending on seasonal produce and what I have available in the fridge.  The following recipes are instant noodle based, cutting out the time required in making complex stocks and sauces. Every country has some sort of instant noodle: from Supernoodle in the UK; Knorr in Poland; Maggi in Malaysia; Indome in Egypt; Shin Noodle in Korea; and QuickChow in the Philippines, and all are great in their own right. I’m sure everyone has had some sort of instant noodle. It’s hard not to succumb, especially with a wide range of flavours, noodle types and the enticingly kitschy packaging.

So I though I’d share with you some simple, and I mean really simple, ways to jazz up your ramen, soba, and vermicelli. The following recipes have used ingredients in my fridge.  I haven’t had to go out to buy anything, apart from the meat/prawns and a few packs of my favourite instant noodles.

1.Crispy Ramen

Crispy Ramen Noodles with Prawns

1 Packet Spicy Ramen Noodles

1 Large leek

2 Large (medium hot) Chillies

4 Large Tiger Prawns

Dark Soy Sauce

Chilli and Garlic Paste

Coco Sugar (honey would works just as well)

Pepper

Cooking time: 20 mins including prep

Place a large sauce pan of water to boil. Take the dried noodles out of the packet, do not break the noodles - keep intact as much as possible. Keep the flavour sachet to one side. Once the water has boiled, place the noodles in. The noodles should be able to “swim” in the water, which will prevent them from sticking. Do not add any oil or salt at this point. Once the strands of the noodles have lessened, remove them from the water, but try and keep as much water in the pan as possible for the sauce. Wash the noodles in cold water and drizzle some oil over to prevent them from further cooking and clumping together. Ramen noodles should ideally be slightly chewy. Just like pasta, noodles need to retain their integrity. Over cooking them ruins the taste, the texture, and is better off in the bin then on the plate. In this dish especially, the noodles will not crisp up the way they should if over cooked.

Whilst the noodles rest, reheat the noodle water. The water in which the noodles were cooking is full of starch, this will help thicken and flavour the sauce. Add the flavour sachet, the chopped leeks and chillies (I personally like them chopped at an angle, as this allows for maximum flavour release), and the whole prawns. Let this simmer away. 

Now it’s time for my favourite bit…. The crisping of the ramen! Heat a frying pan with a table spoon or so of a low burning oil, I used canola/rapeseed oil. Evenly distribute the oil in the pan, and wait till the oil starts to smoke. Add the noodles and quickly distribute them out evenly. The aim is to get the base really crispy, almost nearly burnt, but to retain the chewiness of the top. If the oil is not hot enough, the noodles will go soggy. This should only take a few minuets. Slide the noodles of onto some kitchen paper, to allow the excess oil to drain off.

By now the prawns should be cooked. Remove them and allow to cool. There is no point in peeling hot prawns. I personally think resting them after cooking, like meat, keeps them tender. To the sauce, add a few drops of soy sauce, some garlic and chilli paste and coco syrup (this is just my personal preference in taste, you can add oyster sauce, black bean, hoi sin, or just leave the stock as it is). Allow to reduce by half at least.

Assemble as you like, as much or as little sauce as you like, it wont ruin the crispy base…. And enjoy a plate of crispy, spicy, chewy ramen.

     2.  Korean Bulgogi

It was an especially nice evening to cook: the Manilan sky was pink from the setting sun in the smog; Monday’s rush-hour jeepneys honked in the near distance; and the giant cockroach that had been inhabiting my kitchen for the last few days had moved on to better things. I feel rather lucky to have a wonderful open kitchen, over looking a reasonably quite street lined with exotic berry barring palm and coconut trees. To match the freshness of my mood, I felt like cooking something equally fresh for dinner... Korean Bulgogi.

My outdoor kitchen

1 Packet instant Vietnamese Noodles (thin noodles)

100grams of Beef Rib Steak

2 Large Shitake Mushrooms

Leafy Lettuce

1 Large Springonion

2 Large Chillies

Mint basil Leaves

Soy sauce

Corn Flour

Chilli Powder

Garlic

Brown Sugar

Korean BBQ Sauce

Cooking time: 30 mins including prep

Bulgogi

The ingredients here, do not have to be strictly followed. Typical Bulgogi is eaten with rice instead of noodles, but both work well. I have actually fused Korean/Vietnamese and Thai flavours here but you can leave out what you don't like or exchange it for an ingredient you do like. I fist made this a month ago when I was cooking for a friend who hates spicy food, so I used chicken in a honey/soy marinade, with cucumber, sesame seeds along with vermicelli tossed in light rice vinegar. This was really nice, light and wonderfully fragrant… but today I fancied something a little bit spicier and meatier!

I first sliced the beef steak thinly. The beauty about using the intercostals muscles of beef (or from any other meat for that matter) is the layering of lean meat and fat. This makes it great for the barbeque and for stews. It’s the typical meat used in bulgogi, and as it happens, was on sale at the butchers around the corner from me. I got what I needed, cut the way I wanted, even though it took about twenty minutes of me trying to explain what cut of meat I wanted to the butcher. The meat was marinated in soy sauce, corn flour, sugar, chilli powder and crushed garlic for about 15 minuets.

The noodles were cooked exactly how it was suggested on the packet, although I removed them from the heat a little earlier then recommended and drained all the stock off. The noodles should have soaked up enough flavouring by this time. I didn't want them tasting too strong, as there were quite a few distinct ingredients which were to be part of my bulgogi.

I quickly fried the meat, and let it rest whilst I flash fried the shitake mushrooms in the left over fat in the pan. I assembled the spring onions, chillies, mint basil, noodles, beef strips, mushrooms and lettuce. One reason why bulgogi is so much fun is the “mix and matching “ of every mouthful. Choosing what gets wrapped up in the lettuce parcel creates a great sense of anticipation and mid mouthful reflection. Each mouthful has the possibility to be different to the last, and this makes the dinning experience exciting and fun. 

I must confess that I made way too much for one person. It’s surprising how filling bulgogi can be. I personally think this may have something to do with the self-assembly process.  I did a little swap with Mr Khelm, a few doors down, some bulgogi for a slice of his wife's Ube Cake. A perfectly sweet ending to a spicy meal.  

    3. Chicken and mushroom noodle soup with egg

This is probably one of the simplest instant noodle combinations I make. For those really lazy evenings, when you don't feel like being crazy or creative, when you need something that you know tastes good every time, and something that fills the belly with warmth. For me, this has to be chicken and mushroom noodle soup with egg. Of course I put loads and loads of chilli in, but it isn’t necessary. If you don't like mushrooms, you can leave them out or substitute. If you don't like chicken noodles, you can use any flavour noodle you like… but the one thing I ask you to keep… the egg. Since trying egg in my noodles, I have never looked back. I remember being served it in a street stall in Quezon City when I first arrived to Manila, and I though… oh no… I’m gonna be ill tomorrow. But after one slurp… that was it, I didn't care if I had the poops the next day, it tasted so very delicious, and I new from that day every noodle soup deserved an egg. 

Simple Chicken and Mushroom Noodle Soup

   

     1 Packet Instant Chicken Noodles

     1 Free Range Egg

     1 Large Shitake Mushroom

     2 large Chillies

     Pepper

     Cooking time: 12 mins

Firstly, boil a pot of water. Chop the mushroom thinly, as well as the chillies. Add the noodles to the water, along with the sachet flavouring. Simmer with a lid half on for about two minuets. Switch the heat off. Crack and egg, but only add the egg whites to the noodles. Mix well, then add the mushrooms, chillies and season with pepper. Cover and leave for about a minuet. Serve and place the egg yolk on the top. Mix in the egg yolk before eating, the chicken broth will thicken and taste richer.



4. Kim Chi Jigae Noodle Soup

Kim Chi Jigae Noodle Soup with Tofu and Leeks

Kim Chi soup (Jigae in Korean) is a lot easier to make then it looks. The kim chi makes the base of the soup, creates the stock if you like. What you add after that is entirely up to one’s personal taste: mince beef and potatoes is a classic; pork and leek is also popular; but today I felt like leek and tofu. Noodles aren’t normally added, instead, Kim chi soup is eaten with rice… but I like breaking the rules. I must say though, it is essential to have good kim chi. Normally I stay away from the pre-packaged kim chi as the quality tends to be poor, but for the purposes of the soup, it’s actually okay. I used home-made kim chi from my local Korean store. It’s also better if the kim chi is old (three to four, even five months old!) and smelly.  I love one-pot-cooking; it’s easy, simple, and saves on cleaning up!

The pressure was on. I was cooking for a Korean friend, and was closely watched. She suggested frying the kim chi before adding the water, and I must say, this intensified the flavour ten fold! The reviews were rather good, although apparently it wasn't spicy enough! 

Old Kim chi

1 Large Leek

4 Large Chillies

Silky Tofu

Noodles of choice (I used flat noodles instead of Ramen)

Crushed Garlic

Pepper

Cooking time: 30 mins

Heat about two tablespoons of oil in a pan. Add as much or as little kim chi to the hot oil, remember to add both the stems and leafy part of the cabbage. The more kimchi you add, the ticker the stock will be. Fry for about five minuets, or until the kim chi turns a darker, richer redish colour.

Fill the pan with boiling water from a kettle, add some crushed garlic and leave to simmer on a low heat for about 15 minuets.

Season with pepper then add the chopped leeks, chillies and noodles. Just before the noodles are cooked, add the tofu to warm through. Serve piping warm with a cold beer or Soju. 

5. Soba And Dumplings

Soba with spring onions, chilli, and pork and egg dumplings

I love love LOVE soba noddles. I can eat them plain, with a pinch of pepper and salt, and be perfectly happy. This is because, like most beautiful Japanese things, soba is complexly simple. The first time I had soba was actually in London. It was served cold with a dipping sauce and a selection of Japanese pickles. Soba is made from 80% buckwheat and 20&% wheat flour. The technique in making really good soba takes years… maybe even a life time. So it’s something I’m rather scared of trying to do at home. Till i pluck up the courage, I have tried a wide variety of dried soba noodles. The best dried soba I’ve tried are available at the Japanese grocery store - Arigato in Soho, London. They come in white packaging… I don't know what the name is, as it’s written in Japanese, but it's easy to find. Sainsbury’s actually stock Organic Soba Noodes in their specialist section, which I’ve found to be quite good. I’m sure none of the above actually compare to proper fresh soba made by the hands of a Japanese soba master and eaten in Japan… but till that day comes, I can only rely on what’s available to me.

So this is actually something I make on a regular. I can’t even begin to explain to you how simple this recipe is. It’s substantial, filling and so very delicious! The dumplings I get frozen, again, from the Korean store close to my house. They’re filled with egg and pork. If you can’t get dumplings, soba tends to go well with almost anything, as long as the flavour doesn't over power the taste of the soba. Salt and pepper tofu is a good accompliment as well. 

Soba noodles

2 Small or Half a big Spring onion

2 Chillies

Soba Sauce (dashi stock, soy sauce, anchovy paste, mirin)

A couple of dumplings

Cooking time: 20 mins

Boil a pot of water. Add the dried soba to the boiling water. They only take a couple of minuets to cook. Remove from heat, drain and wash with cold water. Mix in the chopped chillies, spring onions and a few table spoons of sauce. Don't over do it with the sauce, it should just cling onto the soba.

Fry dumplings, let rest on some kitchen paper, then serve.

Going Veggie in Baguio

Baguio stands out as a unique town in the Philippines. As the capital city of the mountainous province of the Cordilleras, it is 1500meter above sea level, making it cooler and fresher then Manila. With its surroundings of mountains and lush pines forests, it can sometimes feel like being in a Swiss town. Because of it's proximity to the capital city and it’s beautiful surroundings, Baguio was chosen by the American's as an Army base in the early twentieth century - the perfect place for troops in recovery to pass time, and recuperate. The buildings are replicas of American lodges and are surprisingly well maintained for the Philippines. The city attracts a younger crowd because of its reputation as the educational capitol of the Philippines due to its many Universities. The many cafes and bars that dot the newer part of the city are packed with oddly dressed students till the early hours of the mornings. It’s well worth visiting these establishments for their open mic sessions, art exhibitions and interesting cocktails. Even though the Philippines is very accepting of gays, I have only ever seen gay couples in Baguio proudly holding hands and kissing in public. Sexualities are not questioned and count for nothing in a town were experimenting and expression are encouraged. Baguio is said to be the best place in Asia for its Ukay Ukay, second hand clothing, which tends to come from Korean, Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan. It’s the perfect place to buy a jacket, some warm boots and a woolly hat for an evening stroll up and down the city streets. Vegetarian restaurants are becoming increasingly popular and this is understandable with the town’s many vegetarian establishments. In a strange way, the place reminded me so much of Brighton. I suppose every country has a Baguio, when you think about it.

Our first day in Baguio was a little more active then we expected it to be, with high ropes and horse ridding at Camp John Hay. We had read there was a cute little vegetarian restaurant not to far away, serving up some interesting takes on Philippino classics and some tasty Indian dishes. In the most unassuming venue of Hotel Elizabeth, is Bliss Café, an eclectic, kitch, meditating retreat owned by Buddhists, Jim and Shanti Ward. Serving pure vegetarian food, and the option of vegan food, this café goes all out in offering the Bliss experience: an extensive menu to suit novices to vegetarian food and to vegetarians who want to try something unusual; a nice collection of books to read; a meditation area; some beautiful paintings and ornaments from the couple’s travels; and blissful music playing in the background. 

We were ravenous and ordered two currys, one with pannier the other with chickpeas, veggie sisig, lumpia, veggie chincharon (pork scratchings), bangal rice, a blueberry lassie, and a chai tea. We had a little gander around the café whilst our food was being prepared by Shanti. I noticed there was a table with a “we will doodle” design on it.  I asked where they got it from, and Shanti informed me it was actually done by We Will Doddle themselves a few weeks prior at an exhibition held in the café. 

The food came out surprisingly fast, especially with our large order. It all smelt so good, and with a huge choice, we didn't know where to start. We gobbled down the lumpia and chincharon, savoured the salty sisig, then tucked into the beautifully fragrant curries.

We broke all the Bhuddist rules… we over indulged and gave into gluttony with no will power. We enjoyed ourselves though. I can safely say that Shanti’s curries are the best I’ve had in the Philippines. They had such a unique flavour, it was clear, the spices used had been chosen carefully to work well will the chickpeas and the pannier… oh and her pannier was homemade! The rice was really tasty, I could have eaten it on it’s ones.

We were told by Jim that the couple have a room in their house that they rent out for people wanting to stay in Baguio. We thought this perfect especially as we were hoping to extend our stay. So the next day we came back to the café and checked into our tranquil retreat, which continued the theme of the restaurant. The room was basic, but had all we needed: a hot shower, a comfy mattress on the floor, and a fireplace.

The same day, Shanti recommended we went to Oh My Gulay! (Translation: Oh My Veggie!) on session road in town. We were told it was a quirky art space that served up good veggie food. It didn't take too long to find it. Located at the top of an opal green tower block. The space was huge and had buildings within buildings. The interior was a miss match of styles and ornaments. I loved it. Even though we were inside a building, it felt like we were outdoors because of the light and open space. 

The views from the top were astounding. We sat and had a long coffee, took in the fresh air and watched the sun set over Baguio.

We were determined to hit some Ukay Ukay shops near Session Road, then head to a night market selling some more Ukay Ukay. We had no space in our bags, but that didn't deter us. I bought five… yes FIVE pairs of shoes. I had made it a mission to find Timberlands for a good price. I found it increasingly hard to find a pair that fit, and so substituted with another pair of shoes. After my fourth pair, I told my self this was ridiculous and it had to stop… surly enough, just as we planned on heading back… I found them! The beauts. Only cost me 550peso (£10).  

So, satisfied and very hungry, we wondered around the street food stalls to see what tickled our fancy. Shwarmas, beef mami, sweetcorn, and street bbq… all so tempting. But the one thing that we were not expecting, but drew us in was tacos. A guy who looked curiously like Che Guvara in a blue Taco Jeep, serving tasty meaty goodness dolloped with spicy salsa… yes please!

My only complaint was it was too small! Our veggie stay in Baguio was tainted by my lust for meaty Taco… oh well. Only live once eh, only in Baguio once, only Blue Taco Jeep once.

So the day of our departure, we organised with Shanti and Jim to volunteer in their café for a few hours. It was a good chance to get to know Shanti and her lovely staff, and land an hand for their good cause restaurant. We were made to feel very welcome. We chopped and squeezed and chopped some more. It was actually really nice to sit in the café’s conservatory and just chop and chat.

We left Baguio that day rather mystified by our experience. It had been so different to our other previous trips in the country. The people, the food, the culture, the surroundings, all made it seem as if we were in a totally different country. In all honesty we didn't want to leave. We had such a good time, and met some amazing people. But there is only so many times one can keep extending one’s stay before it starts to interfere with work, the budget and reality. I know I’ll be back thought, if not for the Ukay Ukay then defiantly for Shanti's tasty curries.